Edie Sedgewick - Muse

The most iconic muse’s in history tend to have been a victim in a life lived full of reoccuring drama, being the perfect candidate for inspiration to any artist. The definition of 'muse' is along the lines of 'the source of an artist's inspiration and/or provides inspiration for later work.'

A muse usually has the following traits – brave, open, underappreciated and dares to be different. She is not a prostitute nor is she a wife. Possibly a mistress, often being the object of short love affairs. She indulges, attracts and is attracted to what probably isn't good for her. And she has life sucked out of her soul, usually resulting in her mental or physical collapse. More to the point - she is generally far more creative and intelligent than the artist she's doted on.

The traditional ‘unreachable woman,’ that triggered imagination and new insights for male artists, seems to be an era of the past. From art to movies to music, historical female icons have been cause for many artist's work such as John Lennon and Yoko Ono, The Rolling Stones and Marianne Faithfull, even Picasso and his multiple muses.

Warhol had numerous muses also, including 60's ‘It Girl’, Edie Sedgewick. Vogue magazine called Edie a ‘Youthquaker,’ inspiring much of Warhol's art, particularly his short films.

With huge false eyelashes, porcelain skin, thick black eyeliner and 'punk' distorted make up (rumoured to never be taken off, just added to) became her signature. Along with opaque tights, a black leotard and a sweater, she accessorised her simplistic style with bangles, chandalier earings and layered necklaces. She had a beauty, she said, that took her 27 years to realise.

Edie and her eight siblings including her father, had been in and out of mental health institutions. The family history of mental illness resulted in the suicides of two brothers, which forever haunted her. Despite this, she was known for her active and radical demeanour, and her trends in fashion that are still iconic today.

Warhol and Sedgewick were inseperable during their all-consuming friendship, even dressing alike. Truman Capote suggested Edie was actually who Andy wanted to be. Edie dyed her hair the same colour as Andys but later said in 'Ciao! Manhattan,' it was because she wanted blonde hair but only came across silver spray. Edie was quoted as saying 'Trends in fashion were set by weird, freaked out people.' People she worked with at The Factory.

The Factory was Andy Warhol's Manhattan infamous studio, and it was here that Edie was introduced to hard drugs. John Cale, member of rock band, The Velvet Underground, spoke about that period. 'Almost everyone was on drugs in the Warhol scene." Except Andy. A typical artist who needed inspiration for his successful, racey and extroverted films.

Throughout her life, Edie fell victim to physical, sexual and emotional abuse that began as a child. She seemed to disallow herself to face her demons, so instead swallowing them, enthralling anyone who graced her presence with her brilliant and vibrant personality.

Edie had the ability to blow off very intense negative emotions with beautiful poise and grace. She had a life complete with drama and heartache causing the hole within her to deepen but harden over. Edie was brave in her creativity with her own identity but not enough to stand alone.

Perhaps it was her naievity or addictive behaviour that allowed her to escape in The Factory but soon enough, Edie had spent her entire trust fund on Andy Warhol, drugs and alcohol. Chewed and spat out, her turn had come to be enalienated by Warhol and the rest of the group at The Factory, and her world that she had unknowingly dominated had disapeared very quickly.

Distance from this world should have healed Edie but it only contributed to the pain from her past, and she continued to pop pills to deal with the permanent emptiness. Unavoidable feelings to one so generous and gentle hearted, left in this position.

Warhol was asked in 1968 about Edie's sudden disapearance only to reply with, "I dont know where she is. We were never that close."

Three years after this, she married, cut out alcohol and limited intake of pain relief drugs. On November 16, at 28, she was found dead due to an overdose. It was the morning after she'd been abused at a fashion show by a guest, calling her a heroin addict. It was also the night a palm reader spotted her short life line, which she responded with "Its Ok, I know."

In 2005, John Galliano announced that both his haute couture and ready to wear collections for Christian Dior were inspired by Edie Sedgewick. In 2001, Kate Moss wore an Edie-inspired pixie haircut.

She was not only Andy's muse, but a fasion muse and one who still inspires today. Not just for her style but perhaps her portrayal of a detached girl with the world at her feet, embracing all that is right and wrong, in a very short life.

Interview with Top Dubai Wedding Dress Designer

While being in the pleasant presence of Ezra Santos, it becomes evident why so many choose to leave the most important part of the biggest day of their lives, in his creative and gifted hands – their wedding dress.

Ezra has resided in Dubai since 1992 and opened his own studio in 2004, which clearly reflects his taste and personality. Each small room is even in strong, deep colours such as greens, dusty rose and soft blues, with large chandeliers, flowers and wall length mirrors. Windsor style chairs, brassy picture frames and floor length curtains make use of every inch of space. With a radiant smile and porcelain skin, Ezra is elegantly poised on his 1940’s style chair.

Obsessed with Cinderella's enchanting ball gown, Ezra’s infatuation began young when he started sketching at the age of 6. In high school, Ezra was constantly approached by school friends for his talent and he was able to design gowns to be worn at the prom.

Graduating with a Bachelor of Fine Arts, Majoring in Interior Design, Ezra continues to take regular summer courses to keep up in the ever changing fashion business.

He moved to Saudi Arabia from his home country of the Philippines in 1987, focusing purely on work and less on life, possibly due to the extreme restrictions of the country’s culture. But even so, it was during these intense 5 years, that Ezra learnt the true art of Haute Couture.

“When I meet someone to design their dress, I sit down with them - I take their ideas, look at their personality and see exactly what is inside them. It has to suit the personality. She has to show more than the dress. This is Haute Couture!” He exclaims.

After deep consideration, he describes his designs as elegant, simple and luxurious. To hand make just one wedding dress, takes four to six months of planning and creating. So much preparation goes into any wedding, but especially in the Middle East, for it is the biggest celebration day to any Arabic family.
Unlike the Philippines where resources are limited, there is a vast supply of material available in the Middle East, making it easier to cater to a client’s desires and demands.

Ezra says,“If I, as a designer, were to choose what someone would wear, I would choose a simple dress with accent to show more of their personality. Sometimes you just see the dress; you don’t see the person anymore.”

Ezra ponders over what inspiration means to him and how he finds it in the simplistic early 1940’s Dior, where he believes the fashion revolution began and evolved. The 1940’s was frequently referred to as the ‘war fashion era’. The war had much effect on fashion, as clothes were in short supply and rationed. It combined style and practicality to achieve a lasting elegance. Those that lived through the era, remember it for its shortages, not a classic and traditional look that it has now become.

For the second time around, Ezra is taking part in a fashion show titled ‘Glamour in the City,’ held by Swarovski, in Dubai. Each designer is given a theme of a city and time of day or evening, and is challenged to re-create the wedding attire suited to that time and place. Among just some of the themes are Miami and Tokyo. Ezra was assigned a popular favourite - Rio de Janeiro after midnight.

“At 1am, it is the after party. So I have created a Carnival costume to be worn, then a samba dress that turns into a swimsuit where they end up at the beach. It will be very colourful and we have the opportunity to use the latest crystals that is not even on the market yet,” he explains.

Ezra offers a last piece of wisdom – “Always have a black dress. You can never go wrong with a simple, black dress.”